Ak Yum
t
Late 8th - Early
11th
Hinduism
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An
unimpressive but archaeologically
important ruin. The earliest elements
date from the Pre-Angkorian 8th century
though inscriptions indicate that a
temple dedicated to the Hindu ‘god of
the depths’ was was previously located
on the same spot. Aside from its age Ak
Yom significant in that it is the
earliest known example of the
'mountain-temple' architectural design
formula, which was to become a primary
design formula of the Angkorian period.
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Angkor Thom
ttt
Late 12th - Early
13th
Buddhism
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Angkor Thom
(Big Angkor) is a 3km2 walled and moated
royal city and was the last capital of
the Angkorian empire. After Jayavarman
VII recaptured the badly damaged
Angkorian capital from the Cham invaders
in 1181, He began a massive building
campaign across the empire, constructing
Angkor Thom as his new capital city. He
began with existing structures such as
Baphuon and Phimeanakas and build a
grand enclosed city around them, adding
the outer wall/moat and some of Angkor's
greatest temples including his
state-temple, Bayon, set at the center
of the city. There are five entrances
(gates) to the city, one for each
cardinal point, and the victory gate
leading to the Royal Palace area. Each
gate, as well as much of Jayavarman
VII’s architecture is crowned with 4
giant faces. The South Gate of Angkor
Thom is often the first stop on a tour
of the temples.
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Angkor Wat
ttt
Early - Mid 12th
Hinduism
Suryavarman II
Angkor Wat |
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Angkor Wat
is visually, architecturally and
artistically breathtaking. It is a
massive three-tiered pyramid crowned by
five beehive-like towers rising 65
meters from ground level. Angkor Wat is
the centerpiece of any visit to the
temples of Angkor.
At the apex of Khmer political and
military dominance in the region,
Suryavarman II constructed Angkor Wat in
the form of a massive 'temple-mountain'
dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu. It
served as his state temple, though the
temple’s uncommon westward orientation
has led some to suggest that it was
constructed as Suryavarman II’s funerary
temple. This is still a matter of
debate. Other temples of the same and
style period include Thommanon, Banteay
Samre, Wat Atwea and Beng Melea, which
may have served as a prototype to Angkor
Wat.
Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat and
an exterior wall measuring 1300 meters x
1500 meters. The temple itself 1 km
square and consists of three levels
surmounted by a central tower. The walls
of the temple are covered inside and out
with bas-reliefs and carvings. Nearly
2000 distinctively rendered apsara
carvings adorn the walls throughout the
temple and represent some of the finest
examples of apsara carvings in Angkorian
era art. But it is the exterior walls of
the lower level display the most
extraordinary bas-reliefs, depicting
stories and characters from Hindu
mythology, and the historical wars of
Suryavarman II. It is in the viewing of
the bas-reliefs that a tour guide can be
very helpful.
The northern reflecting pool in front is
the premier sunrise location and is also
a good alternative to Phnom Bakheng for
sunset. For sunrise, arrive very early,
well before sunrise begins. The sun will
rise behind Angkor Wat providing a
silhouette of Angkor’s distinctively
shaped towers against a colored sunrise
sky. Some of the best colors appear just
before the sun breaks over the horizon.
For sunset, sit outside the temple to
watch the colors change on the
stonewalls, or climb to the top level to
soak up the atmosphere.
The visual impact of Angkor Wat,
particularly on one's first visit, is
awesome. As you pass through the outer
gate and get your first glimpse, its
size and architecture make it appear two
dimensional, like a giant painting
against the sky. After you cross through
the gate and approach the temple along
the walkway it slowly gains depth and
complexity. To maximize this effect you
should make your first visit in optimal
lighting conditions, i.e. after 2:00PM.
Do not make your first visit to Angkor
Wat in the morning when the backlighting
obscures the view. On subsequent visits,
the morning hours can be preferable.
Most visitors go elsewhere in the
morning leaving Angkor Wat open for a
more personal visit.
Most people begin their exploration of
Angkor Wat by following the bas-reliefs,
which cover the exterior walls of the
first level clockwise around the temple.
The first level of the Angkor Wat is the
most artistically interesting. Most
visitors begin their exploration of the
temple with the bas-reliefs that cover
the exterior wall of the first level,
following the reliefs counterclockwise
around the temple. Bas-relief highlights
include the mythological Battle of Kuru
on the west wall; the historical march
Suryavarman II’s army, builder of Angkor
Wat, army against the Cham, followed by
scenes from Heaven and Hell on the south
wall; and the classic ‘Churning of the
Ocean Milk’ on the north wall.
The temple interior is not as densely
carved as the first level exterior, but
still sports hundreds of fine carvings
of apsaras and scenes from Hindu
mythology. Again, a guide can be quite
helpful in explaining the stories of the
various chambers, statues and
architectural forms to be found in the
interior. At the upper most of your tour
of the temple, the central tower on the
third level houses four Buddha images,
each facing a different cardinal point,
highlighting the fact that though Angkor
wat was constructed as a Hindu temple,
it has served as a Buddhist temple since
Theravada Buddhism became Cambodia’s
dominate religion in the 14th century.
Some say that it is very good luck to
pay homage to all four Buddha images
before departing Angkor.
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Bakong
tt
Late 9th
Hindu
Indravarman I
Preah Ko |
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Roluos
Group: The most impressive member of the
Roluos Group, sitting at the center of
the first Khmer capital of Hariharalaya.
Bakong stands 15 meters tall and is
650x850 meters at the outer wall.
Constructed by the third Angkorian-era
king as his state-temple, Bakong
represents the first application of the
temple-mountain architectural formula on
a grand scale and set the architectural
tone for next 400 years. The temple
displays a very early use of stone
rather than brick. Though begun by
Indravarman I, Bakong was expanded by
later kings. The uppermost section and
tower may have been added as late as the
12th century AD. Some of the lintel
carvings, particularly on the outer
towers, are in good shape. Also see the
‘Roluos Group’.
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Baksei Chamkrong
t
Mid 10th
Hindu
Harshavarman
Bakheng |
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Baksei
Chamkrong is a 12-meter tall brick and
laterite pyramid just outside the South
Gate of Angkor Thom Combine with a visit
to the South Gate or Phnom Bakheng.
Harshavarman I began construction or
perhaps dedicated statues at the site.
The temple was later improved/restored
by Rajendravarman II shortly after the
capital was returned to Angkor from Koh
Ker. According to inscriptions on the
doorway Rajendravarman consecrated the
temple with thee installation of a
golden Shiva image in 947AD. It may have
also served as a funerary temple for the
parts of the king.
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Banteay Kdei
tt
Late 12th - Early
13th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Angkor Wat/Bayon |
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Sprawling,
largely unrestored, monastic complex in
much the same style as Ta Prohm. It was
originally constructed over the site of
an earlier temple, and functioned as a
Buddhist monastery under Jayavarman VII.
Like many of Jayavarman VII's works, it
is a tightly packed architectural
muddle, which like Bayon, suffered from
several changes in the plans at the time
of construction. It was also built using
an inferior grade of sandstone and poor
construction techniques, leading to much
of the deterioration visible today. A
restoration project is underway on many
of the towers and corridors, and some
areas are blocked off. The foundation
stele of the temple has not been found
so there is no record of to whom it is
dedicated. The 13th century vandalism of
Buddha images that is seen on many
Jayavarman VII temples is quite apparent
on Banteay Kdei. Combine with a visit to
Srah Srang, which is just opposite the
east entrance.
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Banteay Prei
t
Late 12th - Early
13th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Small,
untouristed temple near Neak Pean.
Similar architectural style and scale to
Ta Som. Some of the apsara and lintel
carvings are in pretty good condition.
Oddly small doors and windows. Quiet,
meditative spot.
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Banteay Samre
t
Mid 12th
Hinduism
Suryavarman II
Angkor Wat |
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Large,
relatively flat temple about 3 km off of
the grand circuit, near the southeast
corner of the East Baray. The temple
underwent extensive restoration this
century by archaeologists using the
anastylosis method. Banteay Samre was
constructed around the same time as
Angkor Wat and the similar style is
particularly obvious in the naga
balustrades. The style of the towers
bear strong resemblance to the towers of
Khmer temple of Angkor Wat and even more
so to Phimai in Thailand. Many of the
carvings are in excellent condition. The
trip there it is a nice little road trip
through villages and paddies. Combine
visit with Banteay Srey.
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Banteay Srey
ttt
Late 10th
Hindu
Rajendravarman
Banteay Srey |
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Banteay Srey
loosely translates to ‘citadel of the
women’, but this is a modern appellation
that probably refers to the delicate
beauty of the carvings. Built at a time
when the Khmer Empire was gaining
significant power and territory. The
temple was constructed by a Brahmin
counselor under powerful king,
Rajendravarman and later under
Jayavarman V. Banteay Srey displays some
of the finest examples of classical
Khmer art. The walls are densely covered
with some of the most beautiful, deep
and intricate carvings of any Angkorian
temple. The temple's relatively small
size, pink sandstone construction and
ornate design give it a fairyland
ambiance. The colors are best before
10:30 AM and after 2:00, but there are
fewer tourists in the afternoon. This
temple was discovered by French
archaeologists relatively late, in 1914.
Banteay Srey lies 38 km from Siem Reap,
requiring extra time travel time.
Drivers usually charge an extra fee in
addition to their normal daily charge
for the trip. Banteay Srey is well worth
the extra effort.
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Baphuon
tt
Mid 11th
Hindu
Udayadityavarman II
Baphuon |
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Angkor Thom:
Huge temple-mountain in the heart of
Angkor Thom. Largely collapsed and
ruined condition, the main temple area
is undergoing extensive restoration and
is not open to the public. The exterior
entry gate and elevated walkway are
open. Note the unique animal carvings at
the walkway entrance, and the large
reclining Buddha, added to the temple at
a much later period, on the west side.
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Barays
t |
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A baray is a
water reservoir - an area of land where
dikes have been raised to catch and hold
water. Angkorian kings built massive
barays, and such projects be-came one of
the marks of Angkorian kingship. At the
center of each baray is an island
temple. The first major baray to be
constructed (Indratataka), measuring
3.8km x 880m, was completed in 889AD
when the capital was still at
Hariharalaya near Roluos. Lolei, sat on
an island in the middle. Construction of
the second major baray (i.e. the East
Baray or Yashodharatataka), began almost
immediately after the first. At 7.8km x
880m it was almost five times larger
than the Indratataka. Almost 50 years
later East Mebon was constructed on an
island in the center. The third and
largest (8km x 2.2km) is the West Baray
built in the early 11th century. West
Mebon sits on a central artificial
island. The last baray (Jayatataka) was
constructed by Jayavarman VII in the
late 12th century. It is considered to
be the baray of Preah Khan though the
unique temple, Neak Pean, sits at the
center. The function of barays is a
matter of academic debate. Common wisdom
is that they were part of a giant water
works used to irrigate the rice paddies,
though they certainly served a political
and religious function as well.
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Bat Chum
t
Mid 10th
Buddhist
Rajendravarman
Pre Rup |
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Unimpressive
trio of small brick towers. Historically
unique Buddhist temple constructed at a
time when Hinduism dominated. The
inscriptions on the doorways praise the
architect, though one admonishes local
elephant handlers to keep their beasts
off the dikes, like an ancient 'keep off
the grass' sign. Follow unmarked dirt
road between Pre Rup and Srah Srang
about 1 km.
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Bayon
ttt
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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If you see
only two temples it should be Angkor Wat
and Bayon. The giant stone faces of
Bayon have become one of the most
recognizable images connected to classic
Khmer art and architecture. There are 37
standing towers, most but not all
sporting four carved faces oriented
toward the cardinal points. Who the
faces represent is a matter of debate
but they may be Loksvara, Mahayana
Buddhism's compassionate Bodhisattva, or
perhaps a combination of Buddha and
Jayavarman VII. Bayon was the Jayavarman
VII's state-temple and in many ways
represents the pinnacle of his massive
building campaign. It appears to be, and
is to some degree, an architectural
muddle, in part because it was
constructed in a somewhat piecemeal
fashion for over century. The best of
Bayon are the bas-reliefs on the
exterior walls of the lower level and on
the upper level where the stone faces
reside. The reliefs on the southern wall
contain real-life scenes from the
historical sea battle between the Khmer
and the Cham. It is not clear whether
this represents the Cham invasion of
1177AD or a later battle in which the
Khmer were victorious. Even more
interesting are extensive carvings of
unique and revealing scenes of everyday
life, which are interspersed among the
battle scenes, including market scenes,
cockfighting, chess games and
childbirth. Also note the unfinished
carvings on other walls, likely
indicating the death of Jayavar-man VII
and the subsequent end of his building
campaign. Some of the reliefs on the
inner walls were carved at a later date
under the Hindu king Jayavarman VIII.
The surrounding tall jungle makes Bayon
a bit dark and flat for photographs near
sunrise and sunset.
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Beng Melea
t
Early 11th
Hindu
Suryavarman II
Angkor Wat |
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Sprawling
jungle temple covering over one square
kilometer. The temple is largely overrun
by vegetation. Constructed in a
distinctly Angkor Wat style, Beg Melea
preceded and may have served as a
prototype of sorts for Angkor Wat. Very
few carvings or bas-reliefs are evident
and may never have existed. When the
temple was active the walls may have
been covered painted or had frescos. In
its time, Beng Melea was at the
crossroads of several major highways
that ran to Angkor, Koh Ker, Preah
Vihear (in northern Cambodia) and
northern Vietnam. Beng Melea is located
60km east of town and requires an
arduous 3-hour journey to get there. The
area has only recently become available
to visitor, being demined just last
year. Poor roads through beautiful
countryside, and lack of visitors at the
temple give the trip a real expedition
feel. Graded dirt road with occasional
flooding in the rainy season. Consider
contacting a tour guide that specializes
in the distant temples such as Terre
Cambodge. .
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Chapel of the Hospital
t
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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102
hospitals were built throughout the
empire under Jayavarman VII. The
hospital itself was probably constructed
of perishable materials such as wood and
bamboo, which has long since
disappeared, leaving only the sandstone
hospital temple or ‘chapel’ for the
ages. This temple and the one at Ta
Prohm Kel opposite Angkor Wat offer two
examples of hospital chapels.
Constructed of sandstone, this Chapel of
the Hospital is in rough condition but
some carvings are still visible. A
quiet, meditative spot, easily
accessible but visited by few tourists.
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Chau Say Tevoda
t
Early 12th
Hindu
Suryavarman II
Angkor Wat |
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Of similar
floor plan but in much worse condition
than Thommanon across the street.
Thommanon was restored by archaeologists
in the 1960’s whereas Chau Say Tevoda
has just begun to undergo an extensive
restoration project. Actually, the
current project offers a pretty good
look at the restoration process. Chau
Say Tevoda seems to stand in partnership
with Thommanon but actually was built
much later in Suryavarman II’s rule than
Thommanon. The temple displays some
interesting carvings in that are in fair
condition. The walkway from the temple
leads to the Siem Reap River a few
hundred meters away.
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East Mebon
tt
Late 10th
Hindu
Rajendravarman II
Pre Rup |
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Jayavarman
IV, a usurper to the throne, moved the
capital from Angkor to Koh Ker in 928AD.
Sixteen years later Rajendravarman II
returned the capital to Angkor and
quickly constructed East Mebon on an
island in the middle of the now dry
Eastern Baray. The temple is dedicated
to Shiva in honor of the king’s parents.
Inscriptions indicate that is was also
built to help reestablish the continuity
of kingship at Angkor in light of the
recent interruption when the seat of
power had been moved to Koh Ker. There
seems to be some scholarly debate as to
whether East Mebon should be categorized
as a temple-mountain. Inscriptions
record activity at the temple as early
as 947AD, but East Mebon it was not
consecrated until 952AD.
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Kbal Spean
t
11th - 13th
Hindu/Buddhist
N/A
N/A |
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A distant
but historically important ruin for the
enthusiast only. Kbal Spean literally
means ‘the head of the river’. This is
one of the ‘rivers of 1000 lingas’, made
up of unique lingas and linga stands
chiseled into the riverbed of the Siem
Reap River. It was believed that the
lingas spiritually 'fertilized' the
waters that fed the Eastern Baray and
irrigated the rice fields below. The
other ‘river of 1000 lingas’ is at Phnom
Kulen. There are also carvings of Buddha
and Buddhist images in the rock that
date from a later period than the
lingas. Combine with a visit to Banteay
Srey and allow a half day for the two.
Take the road straight past Banteay Srey
about 12km. Look for the sign and
parking area on the left side. Requires
a moderately easy 45 minute uphill walk
though the woods. Regular Angkor
admission tick not required. Sometimes a
$3 fee to enter depending on if there is
somebody there to collect it.
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Kleangs (North and South)
t
Late 10th - Early
11th
Hindu
Jayavarman V
Kleang |
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Rectangular
sandstone buildings set opposite the
Terrace of Elephants, behind the Prasat
Suor Prat. ‘Kleang’ means ‘storeroom’
but it is unlikely that this was the
function of the structures. A royal oath
of allegiance is carved into the doorway
of one Kleang indicating that the they
may have served as reception areas or
even housing for visiting noblemen and
ambassadors. The North Kleang was built
in wood under Rajendravarman II and then
rebuilt in stone by Jayavarman V,
probably before the construction of the
South Kleang. The Kleangs are
unremarkable upon close inspection but
picturesque from a distance, standing
among the Prasat Suor Prat. Best
photographed in the afternoon.
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Krol Ko
t
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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A small
temple with a single central tower
surrounded by two laterite walls. Some
carvings are on the ground. Relatively
untouristed, offering a peaceful respite
on the outside of the grand circuit.
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Lolei
t
Late 9th
Hindu
Yasovarman I
Preah Ko/Bakheng |
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Roluos
Group. An island-temple consisting of
four brick towers on a double laterite
platform. Located in the center of the
first large-scale baray constructed by a
Khmer king. The last major temple built
at Roluos before Yasovarman I moved the
capital to the Angkor area. Though the
towers are in poor condition there are
some good lintel carvings, which display
the distinctively detailed Pre Ko style.
An active pagoda has been built amongst
the ruins. Of the Roluos group ruins,
allocate the least time for this temple.
See ‘Roluos Group’.
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Neak Pean
tt
Late 12th
Buddhism
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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When
constructed, this small island temple
was located in the middle of the last
reservoir (baray) to be constructed by a
Khmer king in the Angkor area. The small
central temple sits in the center of a
cross or lotus pattern made up of eight
pools. At time of construction the
temple was called Rajasri but took its
modern appellation, Neak Pean, which
means ‘coiled serpents’, from the
encoiled nagas that encircled the
temple. The temple is faced by a statue
of the horse, Balaha, saving drowning
sailors. Neak Pean may have served an
absolution function, and the waters were
thought to have healing properties.
During the dry season when the water is
low, check out the animal and human
headwater spouts at the outside center
of each pool. Neak Pean is most
photogenic in the wet season when the
pools are full.
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Phimeanakas
tt
Late 10th - Early
11th
Hindu
Jayavarman V
Kleang |
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The king's
temple, once crowned with a golden tower
or spire. The lack of surviving carvings
leaves it artistically uninteresting,
but it is the tallest scalable temple in
Angkor Thom, providing a nice view from
the top. The western staircase (at the
back) is the most easily ascended.
Legend has it that the golden tower was
inhabited by a serpent, which would
transform into a woman. The kings of
Angkor were required to make love with
the serpent every night, lest disaster
befall him or the kingdom.
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Phnom Bakheng
ttt
Late 9th - Early
10th
Hindu
Yasovarman I
Bakheng |
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The
construction of this temple mountain on
Phnom Bakheng (Bakheng Hill), the first
major temple to be constructed in the
Angkor area, marked the move of the
capital of the Khmer empire from Roluos
to Angkor. It served as Yasovarman I's
state-temple at the center of his new
capital city Yasodharapura. The
foundation of Bakheng is carved from the
rock edifice rather than the laterite
and earthfill of other temples.
Bakheng's hilltop location makes it the
most popular sunset location in the
area, offering a view of the Tonle Sap
Lake and a distant Angkor Wat in the
jungle. Often overcrowded at sunset.
Elephant rides up the hill are
available.
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Phnom Krom
t
Late 9th - Early
10th
Hindu
Yasovarman I
Bakheng |
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Three
towers, dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and
Brahma respectively. The ruins are in
relatively poor condition, and sit next
to an active pagoda on top of a hill.
Wonderful view of the Tonle Sap lake and
the surrounding countryside. It is a
very nice 15km countryside drive from
Siem Reap to the base of the hill. An
exposed, 20-30 minute walk to the top. A
visit to Phnom Krom is sometimes
combined with a Tonle Sap Lake boat
trip.
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Phnom Kulen
t
9th
Hindu
Jayavarman II
Kulen |
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The mountain
on which Jayavarman II initiated a royal
'god of the king' linga cult by holding
a ceremony (802AD) in which he declared
a unified, independent Cambodia under a
single ruler. This ceremony signaled the
beginning of the Angkorian period.
Several sites including hundreds of
linga stands in the Siem Reap River.
Waterfalls and active pagoda. There is a
separate entrance fee of $20 for Phnom
Kulen.
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Prasat Bei
t
10th
Hindu
Yasovarman I
Bakheng |
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A set of
three small brick towers between Baksei
Chamkrong and the moat of Angkor Thom
near the South Gate. Construction was
never completed. Prasat Bei literally
means 'towers three'
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Prasat Kravan
t
Early 10th
Hindu
Harshavarman I
Bakheng |
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Reconstructed, unique brick towers
contain large wall sculptures of Vishnu
and Lakshmi. Originally constructed by a
nobleman rather than a king.
Reconstructed by archaeologists in the
early 20th century. Look for modern
replacement bricks labeled "CA".
Photographically better in the morning.
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Prasat Prei
t
Late 12th - Early
13th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Small,
untouristed pair of laterite towers near
Neak Pean. Some apsara and lintel
carvings. Untouristed, offering a quiet,
peaceful location.
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Prasat Suor Prat
t
Early 13th?
-
Indravarman II
Post-Bayon |
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Twelve
nearly identical towers that stand
opposite and parallel the Terrace of the
Elephants. Perhaps begun under
Jayavarman VII, but they do not display
the classic Bayon style characteristic
of Jayavarman VII's monuments.
Picturesque from a distance but
uninteresting upon close inspection.
Some towers are undergoing renovation.
Best photographed in the late afternoon.
The original function of the towers is a
matter of debate but in the 12th century
classic, "Cus-toms of Cambodia", Zhou
Daguan gives a romantic but dubious
account of their function. He wrote that
legal disputes were settled by placing
the contenders in the towers for a few
days. The one to emerge in ill health
was the loser by celestial decree..
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Prasat Top (East)
t
Late 13th
Hindu
Jayavarman VIII
Bayon |
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Architecturally unimpressive but
historically important small tower
located in Angkor Thom. Also known as
'Monument 487' and 'Mangalartha' because
it was built in honor of a monk of the
same name. The final Brahmanic temple
built in the Angkor area. Constructed in
the historically hazy period of Hindu
resurgence after the death of Jayavarman
VII.
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Prasat Top (West)
t
9th-17th
Theravada Buddhist
-
Post-Bayon |
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Small,
ruined towers standing in an unvisited
section of Angkor Thom. Inscriptions
indicate that the site was used as early
as the 9th century, but the structure as
it stands today is post Angkorian. The
materials from an earlier structure were
reused for the new structures. The few
carvings that still exists are Buddhist.
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Pre Rup
tt
Late 10th
Hindu
Rajendravarman II
Pre Rup |
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Architecturally and artistically
superior temple-mountain. Beautifully
carved false doors on upper level, as
well as an excellent view of the
surrounding countryside. Traditionally
believed to be a funerary temple, but in
fact the state temple of Rajendravarman
II. Historically important in that it
was the second temple built after the
capital was returned to Angkor after a
period of political upheaval when the
capital had been moved to Koh Ker.
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Preah Khan
ttt
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Preah Khan
is a huge, highly explorable monastic
complex. Full of carvings, passages and
photo opportunities. It originally
served as a Buddhist monastery and
school, engaging over 1000 monks. For a
short period it was also the residence
of King Jayavarman VII during the
reconstruction of his permanent home in
Angkor Thom. 'Preah Khan' means 'sacred
sword'. In harmony with Ta Prohm, which
was dedicated to Jayavarman VII's
mother, Preah Khan is dedicated to his
father. Features of note: Like most of
Jayavarman VII's monuments, the Buddha
images were vandalized in the later
Hindu resurgence. Some Buddha carvings
in the central corridor have been
crudely carved over with Bodhisattvas,
and in a couple of odd cases, a lotus
flower and a linga. Also note the
cylindrical columns on the building west
of the main temple. It is one of the
only examples of round columns and may
be from a later period.
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Preah Ko
t
Late 9th
Hindu
Indravarman I
Preah Ko |
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In the
Roluos Group. One of the first major
temples of the empire at the early Khmer
capital of Hariharalaya. Preah Ko
(Sacred Bull) derives its name from the
statues of bulls at the front of the
central towers. Many of the carvings are
in very good condition providing
excellent examples of the deep, vivid
Preah Ko style Khmer art. Also see
‘Roluos Group’. .
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Preah Palilay
t
Late 12th - Early
13th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Sandstone
and laterite tower in a cool, shaded
forest setting, in the area behind the
Terrace of the Leper King. Note the
particularly nice Buddhist carvings at
the front gopura. The tower was rebuilt
and modified in the post-Bayon period.
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Preah Pithu Group
t
Early 12th
Hindu
Suryavarman II
Angkor Wat |
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Five small
temples set in a quiet area. One of the
temples is Buddhist and may date from
the 14th century. The temples are in
rough shape but there are interesting
carved lintels scattered on the ground.
Not as touristed as the other temples.
Peaceful little jungle area behind.
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Roluos Group
tt
Late 9th
Hindu
-
Preah Ko |
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Hariharalaya, located near the modern
town of Roluos, was the first capital of
the Angkorian era Khmer Empire. The
capital was named for Hari-Hara, a
synthesis of the Hindu gods Shiva and
Vishnu. Hariharalaya was established by
Jayavarman II and served as the Khmer
capital for over 70 years under four
successive kings. Setting the pattern
for the next four centuries, the first
great Khmer temples (Bakong, Preah Ko,
Lolei - see individual listings) and
baray (reservoir) were constructed at
Hariharalaya. The last king at
Hariharalaya, Yasovarman I, built the
first major temple at Angkor, Phnom
Bakheng, and moved the capital to the
Bakheng area in 905AD. 12km (20 minutes)
from Siem Reap.
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Spean Thma
t |
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Literally
translated 'Bridge of Stone'.
Reconstructed several times. The bridge
as it currently stands is post-Angkorian
construction. It sits just to the side
of the Siem Reap River, indicating that
the course of the river has shifted over
the years.
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Srah Srang
t
Mid 10th and Late
12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Picturesque
baray opposite the east entrance of
Banteay Kdei. Originally constructed by
the same architect that built Pre Rup.
Remodeled in the 12th century as part of
Jayavarman VII's massive building
campaign. The remains of a temple can be
seen in the middle of the lake when the
water is low. Srah Srang is a pleasant
sunrise alternative to Angkor Wat.
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Ta Keo
t
Late 10th - Early
11th
Hindu
Jayavarman V
Khleang |
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Towering but
plain temple-mountain dedicated to
Shiva. Known in its time as ‘the
mountain with golden peaks’. The first
temple to be constructed wholly of
sandstone. Constructed as a state-temple
by Jayavarman V. Unusually, he built Ta
Keo outside of his main capital area
located slightly north of Ta Keo. Many
Angkorian temples are partially
unfinished, but Ta Keo seems to have
stopped construction particularly early
in the decoration phase of construction,
as there are very few carvings.
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Ta Nei
t
Mid 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Small (55m x
47m), semi-ruined, untouristed jungle
temple reminiscent of Ta Som, displaying
classic Jayavarman VII artistry. Some
apsaras and lintels in pretty good
condition. Main road to Ta Nei from Ta
Keo is closed. Instead, follow unmarked
dirt road from just outside the Victory
Gate of Angkor Thom to the 'French Dam'.
Cross the dam and proceed 200m up a
small path. Undergoing restoration.
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Ta Prohm
ttt
Mid 12th - Early
13th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Of similar
design to the later Jayavarman VII
temples of Preah Khan and Banteay Kdei,
this quiet, sprawling monastic complex
is only partially cleared of jungle
overgrowth. Intentionally left partially
unrestored by French archaeologists,
massive fig and silk-cotton trees grow
from the towers and corridors. Flocks of
noisy parrots flit from tree to tree
adding to the jungle atmosphere. Ta
Prohm is well worth an extended
exploration of its dark corridors and
open plazas. This temple was one of
Jayavarman VII's first major temple
projects and was dedicated to his
mother. (Preah Khan, built shortly after
Ta Prohm in the same general style, was
dedicated to Jayavarman VII’s father.)
Ta Prohm was originally constructed as a
Buddhist monastery and was enormously
wealthy in its time, boasting of the
control of over 3000 villages, thousands
of support staff and vast stores of
jewels and gold.
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Ta Prohm Kel
t
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Ta Prohm Kel
is the ruins of the temple or ‘chapel’
of one of the many hospitals built by
Jayavarman VII. Located opposite Angkor
Wat. Very similar design and state of
ruin to the ‘Chapel of the Hospital’
near Ta Keo. Interesting, well-preserved
carvings inside the doorways.
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Ta Som
tt
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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The most
distant temple on the grand circuit.
Small but classic Jayavarman VII temple,
made up of a relatively flat enclosure
with towers much like a Ta Prohm on a
small scale. Face towers on the gorupas.
The execution of the apsara carvings is
better than many late 12th century works
and there is an uncommon individuality
to the figures. A huge tree grows from
the top of the east gopura. It is
destroying the gate but it is a photo
classic. It is best photographed in the
early morning from the outside of the
enclosure, when the sun is low. The
temple is in ruined condition but is
currently undergoing an extensive
renovation project.
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Tep Pranam
t
9th
Buddhist
Yasovarman I
Mixed |
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A long
walkway with a Buddha figure at the far
end. Tep Pranam was originally a
Buddhist shrine in the 9th century under
Yasovarman I, the king that moved the
capital to Angkor. But it was expanded
over the years including 12th century
balustrades, 13th century lions and
significant post-Angkorian modifications
and additions. The Buddha is made from
reused material. It is unclear how long
that particular Buddha has been there.
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Terrace of the Elephants
tt
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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Impressive,
two and a half-meter tall wall spanning
the heart of Angkor Thom. Carved
elephants and giant garudas (bird-men)
adorn the full length. Constructed as
part of Jayavarman VII's building
campaign but extended by his successor.
Best lighting before noon. Terrace of
the Leper King is at the north end.
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Terrace of the Leper King
tt
Late 12th
Buddhist
Jayavarman VII
Bayon |
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A double
terrace at the north end of the Terrace
of Elephants with deeply carved nagas,
demons and other mythological beings.
Named for the statue of the leper king
that sits on top. Why the statue is
known as the 'leper king' is less clear.
Some argue that when the statue was
found, its lichen eaten condition gave
it the appearance of leprosy. Others
have argued that it is a statue of the
leper king of Khmer legend, or that the
condition of the statue inspired its
connection to the legend. The model for
the statue is also a matter of debate.
Suggestions include Hindu gods,
Yasovarman I and Jayavarman VII. Recent
scholarship favors a Jayavarman
VII/Buddha combination. The statue at
the terrace is a replica. The original
resides in the National Museum in Phnom
Penh.
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Thommanon
tt
Late 11th - Early
12th
Hindu
Suryavarman II
Angkor Wat |
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Small,
attractive temple in very good
condition, built at the same time as
Angkor Wat. It’s Angkor Wat style is
most easily seen in the style of the
carved apsaras and the shape of the
tower. The temple seems to stand in
conjunction with Chau Say Tevoda across
the street, but Thommanon was built
decades earlier. Thommanon is in much
better condition than Chau Say Tevoda,
in part because archaeologists heavily
restored it in the 1960's. But even
before restoration Thommanon was in
better shape than Chau Say Tevoda, due
in part to the lack of the stone
enclosed wood beams in Thommanon’s
superstructure that were used in Chau
Say Tevoda’s. Many of the carvings are
in excellent condition. The colors of
the age-stained sandstone against the
jungle are very photogenic, particularly
in the wet season.
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Wat Athvea
t
Late 11th
Hindu
Suryavarman II
Angkor Wat |
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Though
lacking carvings, this nearby temple
outside of the main temple area is in
relatively good condition. The Angkor
Wat style is apparent in the towers.
Next to an active wat of the same name.
Relitively untouristed. No admission
ticket required. 7km south of town 200m
off the main road from town to the Tonle
Sap. For a countryside sunset, follow
the dirt road through for a kilometer or
two past the wat. Palm trees and small
huts lining the road open to rice
paddies and Phnom Krom on the horizon.
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West Mebon
t
Late 11th
Hindu
Udayadityavarman VII
Baphuon |
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Ruins of an
island temple in very poor condition on
an island in the West Baray. A short
boat ride is necessary to visit the
ruins. These ruins exhibit some of the
first carvings of animals in natural,
non-mythological scenes. Also see ‘Barays’.
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